It seems somewhat daunting to realise that the wines from the 2009 vintage mark the last vintage in the first decade of the 21st century.  I still remember the glory days of the new millennium, our first vintage from our own estates in 2001, and everything else in between is a blur.  Although when I sit down to think about what are the characteristics of a vintage, comparisons with others that preceded are the first thing that comes to mind.  And like many vintages, 2009 has almost no comparison.

One common theme of this first decade in the 21st century is that, apart from 2003 and possibly 2001 (which was “spotty”), the Gimblett Gravels has had a run of very good to great vintages.  During the decade our vines were growing up from their establishment in the closing years of the 20th century, and so too was our winemaking approach as we came to understand exactly what we were dealing with.  We have come to realise that good viticulture will produce ripe and distinctive grapes in most vintages and with that our winemaking has become a little more restrained and focused in contrast to the brashness of our youth.  We are moving hand in hand with our vines here, the place and the people as one.

2009 was the warmest vintage so far of the 21st century.  The energy of the vintage was such that both light intensity and growing degree days were the highest recorded.  The peaks of temperature were high, with February containing 8 days above 30˚C.  March was slightly cooler than most previous vintages, which again was a relief after the heat of February and meant that the critical last month of ripening protected the delicacy and purity of fruit and ensured sugar accumulation and phenolic ripeness occurred together.  These unique characteristics of the vintage, along with the naturally lower yields following on from the precociousness of 2008, conspired to provide a vintage that I believe will be regarded as one of legendary proportions.

It has allowed us for the first time to make The Quarry as a total expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sophia has the highest proportion ever of Cabernet Sauvignon in the finished blend at 25%.  Le Sol has retained its incredible identity even in such a warm vintage.  These three red wines have such stature that they have set a new benchmark.  Les Beaux Cailloux shows the refinement that Rod Easthope is bringing to our Chardonnay program and is beguiling and elegant.

Martinborough has not enjoyed the run of vintages that the Gimblett Gravels has, however one must not underestimate this region’s potential to make truly great Pinot Noir.  2009 in our Te Muna Road Vineyard was warmer than all previous vintages of the decade and resulted in an earlier vintage for Pinot Noir in late March and early April.  The 2009 Aroha continues to develop its pedigree and evolution in style from its first vintage in 2006, with 2009 providing the opportunity to create a wine with more lushness, openness and refinement than in the past.

In London in 2009 I was part of a panel that was asked to judge whether 2007 was New Zealand’s best red wine vintage in modern times.  It may have been at that time, but it is not now.  2009 has and will continue to surpass it, at least when judged through the wines of Craggy Range.

Steve Smith, Master of Wine
Viticulture & Wine Director
 

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